Very old new engine...

[Très_C]

Ok, here's the story. About 5 years ago I'm at my dad's place in Northern California and I found this in his barn. Apearently he bought it in 1989 for a kit car he was going to build but never did. Since leaving the builder it had never been out of the crate.

I called CB Performance and their records don't go back that far and the shipping manifest in the crate wasn't much help $1005 for a "Complete engine kit". All my Dad remembers is "it's a 2 litre built for speed", he was more than happy to have me take it away for a measly $500.

Between deployments to Iraq and PCSing (moving) from Oklahoma to Texas to Maryland and back to Texas, I never got around to putting it in but I'd really like to change that now.

Except for the exhaust and a few fuel fittings, it's a complete turn key and it turns easily by hand.

At this point, I'm asking for advice about how to proceed. Should I throw caution to the wind, install it and hope for the best or go through it first to make sure that everythings in good order.

As you can see from the pictures, there are corrosion and rust issues on the outside. The case was full of some sort of protectant until about november 04 when, as a result of my failure to build a suitible crate and the heavy handed nature of military movers, the deepwell sump was cracked. At the very least I need to remove/repair/replace the sump.

and no, it's not for sale....

[murz]

Hate to say it, but you need to pull the top end down. Check the cylinders for rust and probably at the least hone them and install new rings. If the valves were adjusted, the heads should be sent out and the springs replaced. Years of staying compressed will have weakened them and it would be bad news to drop a valve because of a broken spring. Also I would change all the pushrod tubes and seals.

Grand total...about 100 bucks.....Worth it .

DAMN WHAT A FIND!!!!!!

I can hold your hand through this....piece of cake!! YOU CAN DO IT!!

[FONZY]

I would split the case.
its gonna be rusty, oxidization on the bearing faces possibly if htey got too dry etc.

its WELL worth the 100-150 to replace the rusty studs, pushrod tubes, gaskets etc and CLEAN EVERYTHING in and out really good.

run it as is and it siezes, ya just wasted the whole thing.

spend a little time and money, ya got a BRAND new motor for less than a grand.

choice is clear, yeah?

[Très_C]

Hate to say it, but you need to pull the top end down. Check the cylinders for rust and probably at the least hone them and install new rings. If the valves were adjusted, the heads should be sent out and the springs replaced. Years of staying compressed will have weakened them and it would be bad news to drop a valve because of a broken spring. Also I would change all the pushrod tubes and seals.

Grand total...about 100 bucks.....Worth it .

DAMN WHAT A FIND!!!!!!

I can hold your hand through this....piece of cake!! YOU CAN DO IT!!

I would split the case.
its gonna be rusty, oxidization on the bearing faces possibly if htey got too dry etc.

its WELL worth the 100-150 to replace the rusty studs, pushrod tubes, gaskets etc and CLEAN EVERYTHING in and out really good.

run it as is and it siezes, ya just wasted the whole thing.

spend a little time and money, ya got a BRAND new motor for less than a grand.

choice is clear, yeah?

<sigh> Thank you gentlemen, I guess I knew what I needed to do already. (probably why I never got around to putting it in...) I appriciate the offer to help Murz, I'm sure to need it as this will be my first forray inside a VW engine. I've got some research reading to do.

[welshj]

way tooo easy to do.

It's much better to just do a quick tear down and inspection like they mentioned.

And much more affordable peace of mind.

You have members in the kac who will be more than glad to help out with a hand if needed.

And 'prolly a couple a little further out that would too.

hell, I'd help spend a saturday just to drool over it a little....

joel

[Très_C]

way tooo easy to do.

It's much better to just do a quick tear down and inspection like they mentioned.

And much more affordable peace of mind.

You have members in the kac who will be more than glad to help out with a hand if needed.

And 'prolly a couple a little further out that would too.

hell, I'd help spend a saturday just to drool over it a little....

joel

Thanks Joel, I'm starting to look forward to doing this. Money is a bit tight at the moment courtesy of months of unemployment but I hope to put the wrenches to work in August. In the mean time I've got the BBB, the LOB and a copy of "how to rebuild your VW engine" to read and absorb and a suitable workbench to build. When the time comes, I'll be more than happy to supply the pizza and beer for any Air Coolers that would like to help.

[volksdough6]

haha ive never hear of a 2 liter barn find that is so awesome man i hope everything turns out good with that motor

[tommiebsmith]

I had a 2110 crate motor from CB along time ago..
After sitting for ??? before I bought it and sitting for 5-6 years before the first fire
on my end.. after about 1 hour total run time.. it broke a spring.. the second one didn't break and I heard it right away. a lost keeper caused me to break it down completely..
I'm guessing MURZs statement would be the cause --- now looking back..

Super Awesome find.. please - take your time.. do a clean go through .. you'll be happy you did..

Looks like it might of been set up for MidEngine because of those breather lines.

[vw66bus]

I am envious.

But yeah what Murz said.
Then you will at least know what your bore is (stamped on the pistons)
As for stroke you can use a micrometer to measure
the TDC cyl depth and BDC cyl depth, subtract to get the difference
and now you have bore and stroke.

As for the cam, you can create a cam card, but this is NOT easy,
multiple measurements using a dial indicator at the valve.

As for rockers you can do a similar measurement using a dial indicator
at both the valve side and push rod side and divide to get the ratio.
Stock (except 40 horse) are 1.1 to 1

Enjoy, and take your time.

Autozoo may have a hone that you can borrow for free on their
loan a tool program.

[Très_C]

I sat down and pretty much read "How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen Air Cooled Engine" cover to cover last night, and then I tried to go to sleep...




Aschwanden hit the nail right on the head.


So... Here's what I'm thinking I need get aside from a good work bench and a cornicopia of containers:

Dial caliper
ring compressor
engine stand
gasket kit
new pushrod tubes and seals
muffler and fuel fittings
new intake gaskets
New head studs and nuts
New piston rod nuts
locktite
white lithium grease
vasalene
permatex 3H

I already have all the hand tools I think I'll need including low and mid range torque wrenches and a good set of feelers. I'll wait until I get inside and look around before I order any parts, it'll add a week or so to the build but will probably save me from paying shipping on two or three orders. As Marc pointed out, I'm really excited to finding out what the size of the engine is and what's inside as far as parts, after all this is a 30 year old mystery.


now, what color block will go best with all that 80s chrome...